Toll Free: 877-472-4528 · Contact Us
Home
Products
Information
About Us
Photo Gallery
Training
Contact Us
Links

GrailCoat DECK APPLICATION

  1. INTRODUCTION
    1. Existing deck systems and why the need for a complete GrailCoat deck system.
  2. PREPARATION
    1. Wood substrates (CDX, OSB, Etc.)
      1. Make sure surface is free of any loose particles, such as, sawdust, dirt, etc.
      2. Check wood substrate for damage as a result of exposure to the elements. OSB will swell and CDX will de-laminate when exposed to moisture. Even though the surface may look dry, check to insure that any wood that has gotten wet is completely dry and no moisture is trapped inside. This will eventually heat up and start the wood swelling or de-laminating after the deck product has been installed. The movement of the substrate will transfer to the surface of the deck, or worse, will crack the deck product from underneath.
      3. Now that we have a stable substrate, fill any large gaps or cracks with GrailCoat. Once dry, level filled areas by scraping with trowel. This will prevent the filled area from showing through on the finished deck.
      4. Slope – All decks should slope away from the house at least Ό” for every 1’. This insures proper run off. Standing water is not a problem for GrailCoat but is a problem for most homeowners. They don’t want to stand in water!
      5. Doors – All access to the deck should be no less than 4” above the deck. This insures that blowing water will not go in the door. If blowing water enters the house and leaks down, your deck may be accused of leaking. If a builder already has the door framed below this line, include an exclusion in your contract.
  3. FLASHING
    1. All flashings will be set in a bed of GrailCoat. This insures that they will not leak as well as securing them from moving. 6” x 6”, 90 degree, galvanized Wall flashings are set in a bed of GrailCoat at least 2” up the wall and 8” on the deck. Nail the top of the flashing every 2’ and nail the base of the flashing that is sitting on the deck every 6”. Use a quality caulk to seal any joints in the flashing. These will be located at the corners and where two pieces of flashing overlap. Caulk liberally and press firmly until the caulk squeezes out at the top, bottom and lap joint.
    2. Edge metals are used to provide a finished look for the outer edge of the deck. Colored metals may be used or unfinished galvanized or paint grip is acceptable. A 90 degree metal with a Ό” “kicker” on the bottom is standard. At least 3” on the deck and bent down no less than 2 ½” on the face is suggested. Set the bed of GrailCoat on the deck only and to extend out 2” past the edge metal on the deck. Nail edge metal every 6”.
      3. Note: Edge metals are used to trim out the deck and to seal off the outer face of the deck. This may be stucco, brick, or siding and each must be in place or the measurement to the outside edge need be known in order to install the edge metal. Consider all of this when determining the size of the edge metal to be installed.
    3. “KICK-OUTS!” As in roofing attempting to control the flow of water and insuring it does not enter where it should not is our primary goal. Many times flashings are installed yet not finished correctly. One of the most common mistakes is not installing a “Kick-Out”. This is simply a small 4”, 45 to 90 degree turn in the metal located at the end of the wall flashing where the deck ends and the wall continues. This keeps the water from entering behind the wall and turns in towards the outer edge of the deck.
    4. Door frames should have “Door Pans” installed before the actual door is set. This is the same 90 degree, 6” x 6” galvanized metal set 6” up the left side of the door, across the bottom and up the right side of the door 6”. The 90 degree will sit across the door frame and bend around the outer wall. The door pan will sit over the wall flashing. Caulk the cut corners and nail on the upper sides of the door pan only (left and right). Do not nail through the wall metal! If a builder already has the doors installed and does not want to remove them, include an exclusion in your contract.
    5. Instruct all trades that will be installing the finished exterior over the flashings to not nail below 4” from the deck. Siding can be nailed at the top and stucco paper, mesh or channel can lap over yet be nailed above the 4” line.
  4. FOR CONCRETE DECK OR SUBSTRATE:
    1. Roll out mesh beginning on the outer edge and determine where you should begin and end. Do not paint yourself into a corner! Leave the mesh about 1” from the wall or edges. This insures that no fiber may stick out of the GrailCoat creating a potential breach in the seal. The first layer of GrailCoat may be installed without color. Mix accordingly and begin by pressing firmly into the mesh using a trowel. Mesh should show through the GrailCoat and is a very good guide to determine how thick the application should be on subsequent layers. Troweling will certainly follow the lengths of the mesh as you are rolling it out and securing it with the GrailCoat. Do not cover the top edge of the mesh at this time leaving about 2” exposed. This is your lap line for the next course. Your second course will lap over to the GrailCoat already installed.
      2. Note: if you do not leave this area uncovered and then attempt to press the mesh into the already installed GrailCoat when beginning your second course, conditions my exist that the GrailCoat has begun to set up and the mesh will not imbed all of the way into the product. This will begin a slight hump in the overlap that will become more pronounced as the application continues.

    5. FOR WOOD DECK OR SUBSTRATE:

    1. Wood decks are covered with galvanized diamond metal lathing (2.50) the sheets are stapled or nailed on with air gun to the substrate. The sheets are butted up together. Make sure all joints are covered do not but up where this a joint. After lathing is attached you embed the lathing with GrailCoat DuraFlex. Make sure to press hard for contact with substrate. On this coat that is covering the lathing you also add one pint of water to each mixture of Ό pail of polymer and powder. This in done ONLY on this coat. There is no color needed for this coat. After curing for 24 hours proceed to second layer.

  5. SECOND LAYER
    1. The second layer may be installed with no color also if color is not immediately available and you want to install the second layer in order to get the project “in the dry”. Begin at the same point you previously began but this time install the GrailCoat in the opposite direction across the mesh lines.
      2. Note: This will insure that you do not fall into an application pattern of moving the trowel across the mess, stopping at the edge of the mesh laps. This pattern will create a build-up of product in these areas as you progress down the mesh course continually.
  6. THIRD LAYER
    1. The third layer must be installed with the color. Inspect the second layer surface for slight trowel imperfections. These may be scraped off with the edge of the trowel. The smoother the previous surface, the smoother the subsequent surface will be. Install the third layer in the opposite direction from the second.
    2. You may sand the surface of the third layer if an inconsistent exists. Note that a belt sander may leave a dark rubber mark on this area so a vibrating hand sander is recommended.
  7. TEXTURE
    1. Textures are a personal preference. What one person likes may be completely different from the next. The problem is, that by offering multiple textures, you are multiplying the things that may go wrong. We offer one texture that is most popular. This is achieved by blowing the GrailCoat on using a hopper. Mix the GrailCoat a bit more liquid for this step. Using the largest fitting, blow on a generous amount in about 4’ by 6’ area (the area should be no larger than you can reach across). Using your trowel, knock the texture down flat across the entire area. Next wipe the trowel off with water (*or spray it with WD-40) leaving it wet. Again trowel across the texture to further smooth out the texture surface. Repeat, blowing the texture over the previous texture edge. The wet step will blend the two areas together. Continue until entire deck is textured.
    2. Once texture is dry, any railings that are to be installed should be secured. The feet should be caulked liberally as they are secured to the deck.
  8. COATING
    1. Coating is used to insure a continual color across the entire deck and to seal in any salts that may leach to the surface and alter the color of the deck. Mix the coating as follows: 1 Ό Gallon of Polymer.

      2. Color Pack
      Per 300 sq. ft.

      Use a roller attached to a handle, the mat size may vary. Do buy the roller mats that have a plastic tube not paper in that the paper may fail. Use a small brush or roller to detail around the walls and feet of existing railings. This will seal off the bottoms of the feet of the railings. Some builders may want you to cover the feet with the coating to make them less obvious. Roll out the coating consistently until entire deck is covered. Note that most roller lines will disappear when the coating dries and like GrailCoat troweled on, the color may darken as it dries.

  9. Apply Sealer with roller.

    IMPORTANT! – THE DECK MUST BE VIEWED AS A WHOLE. AS YOU BEGIN EACH STEP, LOOK AT THE DECK IN ITS ENTIRETY, NOT JUST THE AREA DIRECTLY IN FRONT OF YOU. THE DECK IS NOT A SERIES OF STEPS OUTLINED ABOVE BUT THE TOTAL OF ALL OF THEM. THE DECK IS YOUR FINAL PRODUCT, IT IS YOUR BEST ADVERTISEMENT.