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GrailCoat MIXING & APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS

Download the English Language Mixing & Application Instructions in PDF Form here.
Download the Spanish Language Mixing & Application Instructions in PDF Form here.

Storage of Materials:

  1. Store powder and liquid out of sun! Powder requires protection from humidity and any moisture.
  2. Liquid contains moisture, do not store at temperatures below freezing.

Temperature for Mixing and Application:

  1. Cement products are affected by temperature, the hotter the day the less fluidity and pot life.
  2. SuperFlex should not be applied at temperatures below 40 degrees Fahrenheit.
  3. DuraFlex should not be applied at temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
  4. DuraSurf should not be applied at temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
  5. A special low temperature additive can be added to all products to allow mixing and application in slightly lower temperatures if requested ahead by customer.

Materials Checklist:

  • Several 5-gallon mixing buckets. (for mixing materials & cleaning tools)
  • ½ inch drill with Jiffy (Drywall) Mixer (blade is a rectangle)
  • or Paddle-type mortar mixer for larger jobs (Cement Mixer will not work)
  • Trowels and other standard plastering/stucco tools.
  • Reinforcing mesh. This mesh is 100% Alkali resistant. (Alkali created by the cement environment attacks fiberglass mesh which should not be used)

Substrate Inconsistencies:

When complete all three coats of GrailCoat will be approximately 3 mm thick. GrailCoat is a thin coat system that DOES NOT HIDE INCONSISTANCIES in a substrate. Make sure substrate inconsistencies are taken care of before applying GrailCoat.

Preparation for Concrete Block:

  1. Prefill any joints, voids, or indentations until smooth.
  2. Make sure surface is free of any loose particles, such as dust, chips, and dirt.
  3. Cut mesh to proper size using scissors or utility knife. The scissors are the best method for cutting the mesh.
  4. Attach the mesh to the top of the wall by embedding mesh into GrailCoat at top of wall and working your way down. This will hold the mesh in place as you go down.
  5. Then proceed to directions for application of Base Coat.

Preparation for Wood (OSB):

  1. Make sure surface is free of any loose particles, such as dust, chips, and dirt.
  2. Large gaps or cracks should be pre-filled prior to GrailCoat application.
  3. Cut mesh to proper size using scissors or utility knife. The scissors are the best method for cutting the mesh.
  4. Attach the mesh to the top of the wall by embedding mesh into GrailCoat at top of wall and working your way down. This will hold the mesh in place as you go down.
  5. Then proceed to directions for application of Base Coat.

Preparation for Foam (ICF):

  1. Remove surface oxidation that has occurred using a rasp designed for this purpose. Make sure that the entire area to receive GrailCoat is rasped; this will facilitate better bonding to the foam. Chalk-Line all corners, doors and windows, rasping corners back to the chalk-line.
  2. Clean surface of all loose particles, using best method available.
  3. Cut mesh to proper size using scissors or utility knife. The scissors are the best method for cutting the mesh.
  4. Attach the mesh to the top of the wall by embedding mesh into GrailCoat at the top of the wall and working your way down. This will hold the mesh in place as you go down.
  5. Then proceed to directions for application of the Base Coat.

Mixing Directions:

Use ½”, 7.0 amp drill with (rectangular) drywall mixer attached

  1. Add color container to 5-gallon pail of polymer. Blend the color well with mixer. Then you will proceed to divide the 5-gallon bucket as described below.
  2. Divide Polymer Equally:
    • SuperFlex, divide five gallons of liquid evenly into three clean 5-gallon pails.
      (1 2/3 gal. each; or 6.32 liters)
    • DuraFlex, divide the liquid evenly into four clean 5-gallon pails.
      (1 1/4 gal. each; or 4.73 liters)
    • DuraSurf, divide into five clean 5-gallon pails.
      (1 gal. each; or 3.79 liters)

  3. IF COLOR IS NOT RIGHT, CONTACT US IMMEDIATELY.
  4. Mix one pail at a time by adding one bag of power per pail of liquid divided as instructed above.
  5. Slowly add powder to the center (vortex) of the spinning mixer. Little by little stop pouring and continue mixing then stop and check. The desired consistency is when you stop the mixer and wait 3 seconds and air bubbles will appear. Judge consistency, some powder may be left over due to environmental conditions. ONLY USE THE AMOUNT OF POWDER NEEDED. YOU MAY NOT NEED THE ENTIRE BAG.
  6. Be sure to mix long enough and if in doubt mix a bit longer. Wait 5 or 10 minutes then mix again for one to two more minutes.
  7. Humidity and the heat of the day will make for less fluidity and pot life. Never leave material in sun.
  8. Between batches put your mixer blade in a bucket of water to help keep blades clean.

Base Coat

  1. This is your first coat over the mesh. Start at the top of the wall with the GrailCoat by troweling it on over the mesh. Make sure that the GrailCoat is pushed through the mesh. Do not try to conceal mesh, just fill in all the mesh squares with material, insuring that the substrate is fully coated.
    CAUTION: Make at least two passes with the trowel in both directions.
  2. Do not re-work or over-work the material, as it will ball-up, become sticky and hard to spread.
  3. Do not over work the base coat; it doesn’t need to be perfectly smooth. Some texture is fine and will help give depth and fusion when the topcoat is applied.
  4. Cover entire wall with uniform thickness. As the product is troweled on always make sure the mesh does not wrinkle or roll up. The mesh needs to stay flat against the wall.
  5. When finished with base coat of GrailCoat over mesh let cure for 24 hours then proceed to putting on second coat.

Second Coat

  1. Apply your second coat of GrailCoat over entire structure this coat should completely cover the mesh and any mesh marks so it is not visible. Both applications should be firmly trowelled into and on top of the mesh ensuring no air bubbles or air pockets. This coat should be applied the same way as the base coat.
  2. Wait 24 hours from applying second coat to do your texture coat.

Final Coat: Traditional Stucco Texture
Knock Down Texture:

  1. Mix the GrailCoat up as in Mixing Directions, except it needs to be mixed a little looser WITH LESS POWDER to enable a good flow through the hopper.
  2. Every hopper – compressor set up is different so start with about 30 psi with the largest tip opening available as a starting point. Particle size should be between ½” to Ύ “ across, depending on desired look and applied over the second coat.
  3. Cover the desired area uniformly making sure the area has plenty of material on it. There should not be more that Ό” space without material.
  4. You should not cover any area larger than you will be able to get back to within 15 minutes so that it can be knocked down. The material will start to set up and be very difficult to work with.
  5. Using a plastic trowel, knock down the covered area, employ and “X” or figure “8” type motion to give a nice non-directional finish. Make sure you have a clean wet towel on hand to clean the blade periodically because build up will occur. Hold trowel at a 45-degree angle from the wall, paying attention not to flatten out the material into large smooth areas. Apply only enough pressure to allow for a good knock down finish.

Spatter Finish:

  1. Mix the GrailCoat the same as for the Knock Down Finish application
  2. Apply over the second coat, using a pressure setting between 35-40 psi as a starting point. The particle size should be between 1/8” to 3/16”. Again apply liberally over desired area to be covered, with no more that Ό” space being uncovered.

Cure Time:

  1. GrailCoat cures quickly.
  2. Mix in batches that can be applied within 30-60 minutes of mixing.
  3. Cure time varies based on temperature.
  4. Cure time between coats SHOULD BE 24 HOURS BEFORE APPLYING NEXT COAT.

Clean Up:

  1. Make sure all tools, pumps, and hoppers are cleaned thoroughly with water removing all GrailCoat. The GrailCoat needs to be removed before it sets up to assure easy clean up.
  2. A good tip when using a hopper is to always have a 5 gallon pail of water to set the hopper gun into when you have down time to keep the material from setting up in the tip.

More detailed Mixing and Application instructions
can be downloaded at the top of this page.